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Not Enough Heat

What can I do if my home does not heat properly in extreme cold temperatures?

Due to the extremely cold weather that is been happening recently, we’ve got a number of calls from homeowners stating that either their entire home, or portions of their home do not get warm.  IE, the thermostat is set at 70°, and the room temperature only rises to 65°.

If your entire home does not get warm enough during extreme cold temperatures there are number of things to check, some may be remedied quickly and at low cost, others may involve significant investments to upgrade your home to properly heat in a cold climate.

Baseboard (Hot Water) Heating

If you have hot water baseboard heat and it’s not keeping up during very cold weather (common in CT), here are the most effective fixes — starting with the easiest and cheapest.

 

🔧 1. Raise Boiler Temperature (If Safe)

Most gas boilers are set between 160–180°F.

  • Check aquastat high limit.
  • If it’s set to 170°F, try raising to 180–185°F max.
  • Do not exceed manufacturer rating.

⚠️ If you’re running 70° thermostat but rooms won’t get there, the boiler may not be delivering hot enough water.

🌡 2. Bleed Air from Baseboards

Air in the loop = weak heat.

  • Bleed all zones.
  • Check automatic air vents.
  • Make sure system pressure is 12–18 PSI (cold).

If pressure is low, heat output drops fast.

🚿 3. Increase Circulation

If baseboards are hot near boiler but cooler at end:

  • Check circulator pump operation.
  • Check zone valves fully open.
  • Make sure return valves aren’t partially closed.
  • Dirty strainers? Flush system if needed.

Sometimes just replacing an old weak circulator makes a huge difference.

🪟 4. Improve Airflow Around Baseboards

Baseboards need airflow.

  • Remove furniture blocking them.
  • Vacuum fins.
  • Straighten crushed fins with fin comb.

Dirty fins can reduce output 10–20%.

🏠 5. Add Baseboard Length (Permanent Fix)

On extreme cold days, the home may be under-radiated.

Standard output:

  • ~550 BTU per foot at 180°F water.

If room heat loss > baseboard capacity, you’ll never hit temp.

Options:

  • Add more baseboard.
  • Upgrade to high-output baseboard.
  • Add kickspace heater.

🧊 6. Seal Drafts & Insulate

In CT cold snaps (single digits + wind), heat loss spikes.

Check:

  • Rim joists
  • Attic insulation
  • Basement air leaks
  • Window drafts

Sealing rim joists alone can raise room temps 2–4°.

🔥 7. Check Outdoor Reset (If Installed)

If you have outdoor reset control:

  • Curve may be set too low.
  • It may be limiting water temp.

During extreme cold, water temp should climb close to high limit.

⚙️ 8. Make Sure It’s Not Short Cycling

If boiler runs 5–7 minutes then shuts off:

  • Thermostat anticipator issue?
  • Boiler oversized?
  • Limit control tripping early?

You want long steady runs in cold weather.

 

Warm Air (Ducted)Heating

If you have warm air heat and it’s not keeping up during very cold weather (common in CT), here are the most effective fixes — starting with the easiest and cheapest.

If your warm air (forced-air) furnace isn’t keeping up in very cold weather, here’s how to diagnose and fix it — especially relevant in CT cold snaps where systems get pushed hard.

🔥 1. Check Temperature Rise (Very Important)

Look at the nameplate inside the furnace — it lists a “temperature rise” range (example: 40–70°F).

  1. Measure returns air temp.
  2. Measure supply air temp at a nearby vent.
  3. Subtract.

Example:

  • Return = 68°F
  • Supply = 130°F
  • Rise = 62° (good if within range)

What it Means:

  • ❄️ Low rise (ex: 25–35°) → Airflow too high or burner under firing.
  • 🔥 High rise (over range) → Airflow too low (dirty filter, blower issue).

If temp rise is wrong, you lose heating capacity.

🧼 2. Check Airflow Restrictions (Most Common Issue)

Restricted airflow = weak heat delivery.

Check:

  • Dirty filter
  • Closed supply vents
  • Blocked return grilles
  • Dirty evaporator coil (if AC coil above furnace)
  • Undersized return duct

A clogged filter alone can reduce output 15–25%.

⚙️ 3. Verify Gas Pressure / Burner Operation

If flames are small or lazy:

  • Gas pressure may be low.
  • Gas valve is out of adjustment.
  • Dirty burners.
  • Partially blocked heat exchanger.

You should see strong blue flames.

🌀 4. Blower Speed Setting

Blower set too high = air feels lukewarm.

Heating speed tap should be correct (usually medium-low).

Too fast = lower supply temperature.
Too slow = overheating & short cycling.

🧊 5. Duct Heat Loss / Leakage

In basements or attics:

  • Uninsulated ducts lose a LOT of heat.
  • Leaky joints waste capacity.

Seal with mastic. Insulate trunk lines.

🏠 6. Heat Loss Exceeds Furnace Capacity

On extreme cold days (single digits), furnace may be undersized.

Check:

  • Furnace BTU input.
  • Square footage.
  • Insulation quality.
  • Drafts.

If system runs constantly and house stabilizes below setpoint, you may simply be at max output.

⏱ 7. Short Cycling?

If furnace runs 5–8 minutes then shuts off:

Possible causes:

  • Dirty flame sensor
  • Limit switch opening
  • Oversized unit
  • Thermostat location issue

In very cold weather, furnace should run long steady cycles.

🧊 8. Thermostat Settings

Make sure:

  • Fan is set to AUTO (not ON).
  • No setback recovery overwhelming system.
  • Batteries are good.

Quick Diagnostic for You

When it’s very cold:

  • 🔥 Air hot but house won’t warm? → Likely heat loss or undersized unit.
  • ♨️ Air barely warm? → Airflow or gas issue.
  • 🔄 Runs nonstop? → Capacity issue.
  • ⛔ Cycles on/off often? → Limit or control issue.